Monday, December 14, 2009

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Unnamed (V4) - Hanger 18


This problem is on the back of the bubble gum boulder. It starts at the back of the cave.

Unnamed (V2) - Hanger 18


This problem is to the right of Black Angus. It starts on a rail on the very right corner of the boulder and moves left.

Unnamed (V3) - Hanger 18

This fun problem starts in the pit to the left of In the Face of Danger. Definately a five star problem. Start on jugs in the horizontal and climb the overhanging prow.


Unnamed (V0) - Hanger 18

This is a fun warm-up on the same boulder as Black Angus and Gumball.

Unnamed (V2) - Hanger 18


This problem is two boulders to the left of The Press. Start below the roof with one hand on the lip. There is likely a harder variation that starts with two hands below the overhang.

Under My Thumb (V6) - The Caves


Probably the coolest climb in Haycock, and like everything here once you dial the beta it feels suprizingly close to grade. Sit start as far under the roof as possible on huge flake jugs. Climb out through the notch and top out.

Pele (V8) - The Caves


V7 variation: climb Pele but don't top out; finish halfway up the crack on a triangular hold.

Honeybun Arete (V2) - The Caves

There are two variations: keep to the left and off the slab and it is V2, climb the face and it is V0ish.

The Press (V7/8) - Hanger 18

(one of the few soft ratings in Haycock, feels V5) It is a stone's throw to the left of Of Mice and Men. Start on a slopey jug with decent feet and move up. The right face is off.



In the Face of Danger (V4) - Hanger 18



Bubblegum (V3) - Hanger 18

V3 on left Sit start. Start on a huge sidepull and a sloper. Move to the jug on the left and follow the seam above to the finish.
V0+ (#17 in Char's book) in the middle. Start on two side pulls and follow big holds to the top.
V4 traverse from climber's right beginning on crimps into Bubblegum finish.



Wednesday, September 30, 2009

The Fin V1 (Glass Wall)
Climb the face and prow



Tuesday, September 8, 2009

Black Angus V8 (Hanger 18)
Climb the thin seam.




Monday, August 31, 2009





Dynosauras V3 (Caves Trail)
Big dyno - start at the obvious jug and dyno for the lip.



3-Star V1 (Caves Trail/Hanger 18 side)
High ball finger crack. No fall zone.



Light Shag V3 (the Gateway)
Start under the roof on a jug. Reach out to an edge and then traverse up right above the smaller neighboring boulder and top out.



Pelligro V10 (Teddy Bear Area)

On the left side of the roof, start with a good hold for the left and a small crimp for the right.



Googy V5
(Teddy Bear Area)

Start on a jug on the arete. Traverse left on the lip and top out.